Think only grapes express terrior? Think again ...

So what is grain, anyway? Simply put, grain is the seed of grasses like wheat, rye, barley and rice. In Texas, James Brown sources grain directly from local farmers and Barton Springs Mill runs seven days a week, milling eight varieties of wheat, five varieties of corn, two types of rice and rye, as well as spelt.  

Modern varieties of grain that are grown on large industrial farms have been bred for drought resistance and high yield, without much focus on taste. The grains milled at Barton Springs, though, are varieties that are favored for their flavor.

At Kameron Koepp’s farm, pictured here, he and his family grow and number of heritage grains like Rouge de Bordeaux, a terrior-dependent varietal that produces incredible flavor when grown in the right conditions. Kameron and all of the other farmers who work with James collaborate with him directly on what grains they will be growing each season. Once the grains are harvested, the farmers dry the grains down to a specific water percentage so they’ll grind perfectly when milled at Barton Springs.

“Grown in sandy loam, Rouge de Bordeaux tastes like beige,” says James. “Moved to Kameron Koepp’s heavy clay soil, this terroir-dependant varietal offers exuberant notes of cinnamon, molasses, and baking spices.”

To learn more about heritage and whole grains, visit the Old Ways Whole Grain Council’s site here.

Catherine Neville